Ultramarine Blue Color Chart |
Materials needed:
- Oil Colors
- Alizarin Permanent
- Cadmium Red Deep
- Transparent Oxide Red
- Cadmium Yellow Light
- Cadmium Lemon
- Viridian Green
- Phthalo Blue
- Ultramarine Blue (lots of it)
- Titanium Zinc White
- Canvas pad--I used Centurion oil-primed linen, 9"x12"
- Masking tape--I used 3/4" tape
Unit I, Lesson 9 took me about 2.5 hours to complete.
Step One: Divide the canvas
Divide your canvas pad using the method outlined in Unit I, Lesson 1. See my time-saving T-square trick here.
Step Two: Arrange the colors
The colors remain in the same order as in the first color chart.
Step Three: Mix the colors and apply the paint
I continued to use my value scale as explained in Lesson 6, here.
Step Four: Remove the tape
Step Five: Let it dry
Step One: Divide the canvas
Divide your canvas pad using the method outlined in Unit I, Lesson 1. See my time-saving T-square trick here.
Step Two: Arrange the colors
The colors remain in the same order as in the first color chart.
Step Three: Mix the colors and apply the paint
I continued to use my value scale as explained in Lesson 6, here.
Step Four: Remove the tape
Ultramarine Blue Color Chart in progress |
Here is a link to an article on how to frame unmounted canvas. I will probably mat and frame them, and display them with a corresponding label.
BONUS--Warm Blues
Working with tints of Phthalo and Ultramarine Blue made me question which appears "warmer." Remember that Phthalo Blue leans yellow and Ultramarine Blue leans red. Both red and yellow are considered "warm" colors, but which is warmer? This has always confused me (and there doesn't seem to be a consensus that I'm aware of), so while it was still fresh in my mind, I investigated a bit for my own reference.
Warm colors appear to come forward, while cool colors appear to recede. So, to test whether a yellow blue or a red blue appears warmer, I decided to compare both next to each other, tinted to the same value as each other and on a neutral gray background. I used toned sketching paper for the background, which is approximately at Value 7.
First, I taped the paper to ensure the spots of color were the exact same size. (Smaller objects appear to recede, while large objects appear to come forward.)
Taping the paper |
You can see that the paper is toned to Value 7 here.
Value 7 |
I tinted Phthalo Blue and Ultramarine Blue to approximately the same value as the paper to reduce potential confusion caused by value (high values appear to come forward and low values appear to recede).
Here are my piles of paint, tinted to Value 7.
Tinted Phthalo Blue (top) versus tinted Ultramarine Blue (bottom) |
Tinted Phthalo Blue, Value 7 (top) versus tinted Ultramarine Blue, Value 7 (bottom) |
I applied the paint squares and removed the tape. Then, I tested the squares to make sure they were the exact same value, which they were.
Value 7 tints |
Here is the final product.
Value 7 tints of Ultramarine Blue (left) versus Phthalo Blue (right) |
You can access all of the lessons in this unit from the Index of Lessons page here.
Upcoming Lesson
Next up, Unit II--the 30 Paintings in 30 Days Challenge! I will post an introduction to the unit soon. In the meantime, you can sign up here.
As always, please subscribe to follow along or join in. I'd love to meet you--please introduce yourself in the comments. Also, your feedback is most appreciated. Leave your questions, comments, and hate mail below. (I won't post the hate mail, ha!) Thanks for stopping by. Monique
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